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Old 10-25-2006   #1
tweety
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 117
Hahn owners

I have been hearing many different things from many different owners regarding what we can or cannot do with these kits. This information is being passed along from the Hahn folks either by the tech dude, Aaron or by Bill himself.
Many items are misleading or so random that I would like to start something of a thread that can collect these bits of information and see what type of a puzzle we can make.
Before getting started, keep in mind that there may be things that are region specific but this seems dumb if we want to drive the cars our of our local area.

Last night the other Houston Sol that I installed the kit in came by for a slight enhancement to his motor cover and explained to me what he has been doing under the Aaron-guidance to improve his stock kit to put out 10, yes you read right, 10 PSI!!!
According to Aaron, this max setting will NOT damage our cars.
Tim, the owner, went and bought a gauge to read the stock set up. It was pushing 7 psi only.
Under the housing there is a threaded rod that goes to the wastegate. Most of us will show 10-14 threads. Turn it in until you see about 4. This will increase the boost.
I rode in his car last night and it was not even the same car as mine. 2-3 shift broke the tires free. Yeah- it's that much more boost!!!
In addition, he added a Greddy blow off which I think is much louder under heavy purge but normal use sounds just like the stock crap.
Lastly, he was told to change to a NGK V-tip plug commonly used in Subaru machines. Cheap plugs at $5.00/box of four. This suggestion again from Aaron was as he put it, "...what we found to run better...". According to Tim, it handles the richness better regarding to the debris on the tail of the car and also just about removes that chugging at idle that some of us have with the new tunes.
At the time of the install, I didn't mount his shield because I needed him to chase down torque as the bolts settled in. He has it in now and you know, it looks very good installed.
Oh, and get this. You can touch the shield right after he pulls up without burning your hand. Go figure Bill! Shield = no melting of surrounding parts.
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Old 10-25-2006   #2
carlintexas
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Tweety, great info. I know the threaded rod you are talking about as I had to take it off to get to the oil drain bolts to fix the oil leak. Will it turn in without taking it loose? I had a heck of a time re-connecting the rod!

So we have an adjustable BOV, right? Isn't that what the rod goes to? So he installed a GReddy BOV! Did he get the RS adjustable?

I need more boost!

Stage III must be coming with a different BOV. TurboSol is the beta and he is running around 13 lbs boost with stage III. Should we wait for stage III so we don't double purchase?

I never did get the heat shield - think I'll call Brad today and rag on him!
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Old 10-25-2006   #3
tweety
 
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Tim said that the rod is a bit difficult to turn in and without being able to see it last night I didn't really grasp why it was so difficult.
I have undone the rod once to replace my housing when the coating peeled off and yes, it was a pain to get back on.
Greddy RS? I didn't ask and didn't look at the markings all that closely. It was this shiney piece of material in his motor like a diamond in coal. Thinking for what you are saying, waiting on the BOV until the III comes out would be best unless you can bend them over and back off that charge. Assuming that it would be the same unit.
I will be doing the shield and P/S move this weekend-finally. I haven't had the time with working on other peoples cars. I have new plastic to install where it had melted when completed as well.
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Old 10-25-2006   #4
MyNewSolstice
 
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I'VE been in TurboSol's Car and it is definately pumping 280 to the wheels easy!
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Old 10-26-2006   #5
carlintexas
 
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tweety

I took a look at the threads on the rod from the wastegate to the BOV and I am at 4 threads at present.

I'll call Aaron and get the number off the NGK plugs and give them a try.
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Old 10-26-2006   #6
tweety
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carlintexas
I took a look at the threads on the rod from the wastegate to the BOV and I am at 4 threads at present.

I'll call Aaron and get the number off the NGK plugs and give them a try.

It doesn't do you any good right at this moment but I have the NGK number at the house. If you don't get it and post it, I will do so when I get home tonight.
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Old 10-26-2006   #7
carlintexas
 
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tweety

I never recieved the heat shield and P.S. relocation material so I sent Bill Jr. a P.M. bugging him for them - and asked when stage III was going to be ready.
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Old 10-26-2006   #8
tweety
 
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NGK plugs- HAHN

Here is the number off the box that the Hahn camp, via Aaron, suggested to use to assist those of us in warmer climates to use. They are supposed to assist in the burning of the fuel and minimize the idle chug.

NGK, V-Power

Stock#
4306
LZTR5A-13

SKU# 87295-04306
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Old 10-26-2006   #9
carlintexas
 
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Tweety, got it, thanks.

Did you get a re-flash from Hahn - to take care of high humidity engine codes? VIN did or was going to get one and have Hahn also lower the 210 degree fan 'turn on' down to 205.

Seems that the GReddy RS BOV is a good replacement that keeps the boost up rather than bleeding off like the current BOV does. I'll ask Bill Jr. if a new BOV is part of the stage III kit.

I guess I'll get a boost gage (one that is loose) that I can route to the inside of the car so I can check boost psi we are really getting currently!
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Old 10-26-2006   #10
tweety
 
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I am on flash #2.
No codes but a dirtier back end. The plugs still need to go in this weekend so maybe this will solve the problem there.
I haven't turned a wrench on the car in over 5 weeks. Haven't driven it in almost 2 since the water crossing.
Fan turn down?
Do you mean to tell me that the fan can be made to turn on sooner than it does now?
Did I not get a memo???
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Old 10-26-2006   #11
carlintexas
 
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I may have kept a copy on the other forum. I'll see. As VIN indicated to me, the fan temp setting is controlled by the ECM and it can be re-programmed to come on at a lower temp. I would want it to come on @ 195!

I always thought you were on the 'first to notify' list!

JUST CHECKED - OOPS! MUST HAVE DELETED THE PM FROM VIN.

Last edited by carlintexas; 10-26-2006 at 08:27 PM.
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Old 10-27-2006   #12
tweety
 
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Do you think that this is something that can be done locally or do I need to go through the BS of sending this back to him again?
My service dude is so cool that he can slide things under the radar and under the table if I ask.
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Old 10-27-2006   #13
carlintexas
 
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Be worth giving him a call! If he make that change without erasing or stepping on the current programming - that would be nice.

Saw a post on theSky forum that says the upgrade from stage II to stage III is primarily the injectors. Don't know how informed the poster was, says he knows TurboSol. If the kit doesn't come with a GReddy BOV and high flow converter I'm going to add them anyway!
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Old 10-27-2006   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tweety
Do you think that this is something that can be done locally or do I need to go through the BS of sending this back to him again?
My service dude is so cool that he can slide things under the radar and under the table if I ask.
I'm of the opinion that Vector puts a lock on their ECm retunes, that prevents anyone from even reading the ECM, let alone changing anything. Probably not even the dealer. I've sent a PM to GTPprix asking about that, not enough time for a response yet.

If there was no lock on the tune, I could easily change the ECM setting for the thermostat for any and all 2006 Solsti.
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Old 10-29-2006   #15
carlintexas
 
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tweety - got back from the Arkansas leaf run & seemed the car was running a little weaker and rougher than usual. Had to fill with 91 octane in Oklahoma (probably part of the problem). While I'm at it VIN2020 got an engine code on 91 octane on a cold / wet morning but it cleared on it's own later.

So I checked the turbo bolts (turbo to manifold) & sure enough - the upper left nut was backed off several turns. Lower left slightly loose, upper & lower right seem tight enough. Next time I find them backing off - I'm putting lock washers on them!
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