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Old 10-25-2006   #1
tweety
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 117
Hahn owners

I have been hearing many different things from many different owners regarding what we can or cannot do with these kits. This information is being passed along from the Hahn folks either by the tech dude, Aaron or by Bill himself.
Many items are misleading or so random that I would like to start something of a thread that can collect these bits of information and see what type of a puzzle we can make.
Before getting started, keep in mind that there may be things that are region specific but this seems dumb if we want to drive the cars our of our local area.

Last night the other Houston Sol that I installed the kit in came by for a slight enhancement to his motor cover and explained to me what he has been doing under the Aaron-guidance to improve his stock kit to put out 10, yes you read right, 10 PSI!!!
According to Aaron, this max setting will NOT damage our cars.
Tim, the owner, went and bought a gauge to read the stock set up. It was pushing 7 psi only.
Under the housing there is a threaded rod that goes to the wastegate. Most of us will show 10-14 threads. Turn it in until you see about 4. This will increase the boost.
I rode in his car last night and it was not even the same car as mine. 2-3 shift broke the tires free. Yeah- it's that much more boost!!!
In addition, he added a Greddy blow off which I think is much louder under heavy purge but normal use sounds just like the stock crap.
Lastly, he was told to change to a NGK V-tip plug commonly used in Subaru machines. Cheap plugs at $5.00/box of four. This suggestion again from Aaron was as he put it, "...what we found to run better...". According to Tim, it handles the richness better regarding to the debris on the tail of the car and also just about removes that chugging at idle that some of us have with the new tunes.
At the time of the install, I didn't mount his shield because I needed him to chase down torque as the bolts settled in. He has it in now and you know, it looks very good installed.
Oh, and get this. You can touch the shield right after he pulls up without burning your hand. Go figure Bill! Shield = no melting of surrounding parts.
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Old 10-25-2006   #2
carlintexas
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 109
Tweety, great info. I know the threaded rod you are talking about as I had to take it off to get to the oil drain bolts to fix the oil leak. Will it turn in without taking it loose? I had a heck of a time re-connecting the rod!

So we have an adjustable BOV, right? Isn't that what the rod goes to? So he installed a GReddy BOV! Did he get the RS adjustable?

I need more boost!

Stage III must be coming with a different BOV. TurboSol is the beta and he is running around 13 lbs boost with stage III. Should we wait for stage III so we don't double purchase?

I never did get the heat shield - think I'll call Brad today and rag on him!
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Old 10-25-2006   #3
tweety
 
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Posts: 117
Tim said that the rod is a bit difficult to turn in and without being able to see it last night I didn't really grasp why it was so difficult.
I have undone the rod once to replace my housing when the coating peeled off and yes, it was a pain to get back on.
Greddy RS? I didn't ask and didn't look at the markings all that closely. It was this shiney piece of material in his motor like a diamond in coal. Thinking for what you are saying, waiting on the BOV until the III comes out would be best unless you can bend them over and back off that charge. Assuming that it would be the same unit.
I will be doing the shield and P/S move this weekend-finally. I haven't had the time with working on other peoples cars. I have new plastic to install where it had melted when completed as well.
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Old 10-25-2006   #4
MyNewSolstice
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
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I'VE been in TurboSol's Car and it is definately pumping 280 to the wheels easy!
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Old 10-26-2006   #5
carlintexas
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 109
tweety

I took a look at the threads on the rod from the wastegate to the BOV and I am at 4 threads at present.

I'll call Aaron and get the number off the NGK plugs and give them a try.
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Old 10-26-2006   #6
tweety
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 117
Quote:
Originally Posted by carlintexas
I took a look at the threads on the rod from the wastegate to the BOV and I am at 4 threads at present.

I'll call Aaron and get the number off the NGK plugs and give them a try.

It doesn't do you any good right at this moment but I have the NGK number at the house. If you don't get it and post it, I will do so when I get home tonight.
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Old 10-29-2006   #7
carlintexas
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 109
tweety - got back from the Arkansas leaf run & seemed the car was running a little weaker and rougher than usual. Had to fill with 91 octane in Oklahoma (probably part of the problem). While I'm at it VIN2020 got an engine code on 91 octane on a cold / wet morning but it cleared on it's own later.

So I checked the turbo bolts (turbo to manifold) & sure enough - the upper left nut was backed off several turns. Lower left slightly loose, upper & lower right seem tight enough. Next time I find them backing off - I'm putting lock washers on them!
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Old 10-30-2006   #8
tweety
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carlintexas
tweety - got back from the Arkansas leaf run & seemed the car was running a little weaker and rougher than usual. Had to fill with 91 octane in Oklahoma (probably part of the problem). While I'm at it VIN2020 got an engine code on 91 octane on a cold / wet morning but it cleared on it's own later.

So I checked the turbo bolts (turbo to manifold) & sure enough - the upper left nut was backed off several turns. Lower left slightly loose, upper & lower right seem tight enough. Next time I find them backing off - I'm putting lock washers on them!
I have mine safety wired together. After the KC run, stopping to check bolt or nuts was getting kind of old. The drilling and safety wiring was something that we did on the race bikes so it was an easy thing for me to think of.
Now with the heat shield on the unit, I can't see the bolts or nuts.
Another option of you have ever had issue with the housing to downpipe (3 bolts) coming loose, get longer than needed bolts so that they stick out the other side of the housing. Drill holes through them as close to the housing as you dare and wire them together.
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Old 11-01-2006   #9
carlintexas
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 109
tweety - where's the 'V'

I installed the NGK 4306 'V' Power plugs today.

I noticed that these new plugs seem to be about 1/16" to 1/8" deeper into the cylinder than the stock plugs. Any issue with the plug hitting the top of the piston - before I start this thing??
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Old 11-02-2006   #10
Clear Bra Installer
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 3
Maybe I can shed some light.

Ok.

Here is my take on this. I personally spoke to Aaron at the Hahn booth at SEMA. The Stage III kit from what they says is pretty much an upgraded fuel pump and a retune with more boost. Should be ready by the years end from what they said.

As far as boost pressure, I too installed a boost guage and noticed that I was only getting about 7psi and when I talked to Aaron, he showed me the rod which can be screwed in to get more boost. I also live in an area where 91 octane is the only fuel so I am waiting on a reflash to work with 91 as I have to run 10 gal of 91 and 3 gal of 100 to be safe now.

Heatshield and PS relocation kit worked great. I definately notice the heat around surrounding components is much less. Still looks like I need to get a new plastic button for the hood as it is melted from before the heat shield.

I heard about all the bolt loosening on other cars so I did a daily drive and retighten for the first 7 days of use. Since then, I have checked them once a week and notice no backing out. Hopefully I am lucky.

I also installed the NGK plugs right from the get go and still experience the chug at cold idle, but when warmed up, it seems to run fairly smooth, pretty close to stock.

Well that's my experience thus far.

Clear
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Old 11-02-2006   #11
tweety
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clear Bra Installer
Ok.

Here is my take on this. I personally spoke to Aaron at the Hahn booth at SEMA. The Stage III kit from what they says is pretty much an upgraded fuel pump and a retune with more boost. Should be ready by the years end from what they said.

As far as boost pressure, I too installed a boost guage and noticed that I was only getting about 7psi and when I talked to Aaron, he showed me the rod which can be screwed in to get more boost. I also live in an area where 91 octane is the only fuel so I am waiting on a reflash to work with 91 as I have to run 10 gal of 91 and 3 gal of 100 to be safe now.

Heatshield and PS relocation kit worked great. I definately notice the heat around surrounding components is much less. Still looks like I need to get a new plastic button for the hood as it is melted from before the heat shield.

I heard about all the bolt loosening on other cars so I did a daily drive and retighten for the first 7 days of use. Since then, I have checked them once a week and notice no backing out. Hopefully I am lucky.

I also installed the NGK plugs right from the get go and still experience the chug at cold idle, but when warmed up, it seems to run fairly smooth, pretty close to stock.

Well that's my experience thus far.

Clear

Let's talk about that rod to the actuator.
Are you unscrewing it to make the rod longer?
On mine, I loosened the lock nut and when I turned the rod, it would only go in one direction, exposing more threads and making the rod longer.
Would this be the correct direction?
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Old 11-16-2006   #12
Mysterious
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Location: Boston, Georgia
Posts: 10
If your bolts are backing off, try using some Loctite "blue" not the "red", or you'll never get them off. On different turbo configurations on diesels, due to heat cycling, they sometimes will back out. I haven't looked at the Hahn setup, but a grade 5 bolt is a requirement, stainless won't work well and is prone to breakage from heat cycles. So to solve the bolt back out prob on diesels and gas turbines we use the blue or safety wire the bolts if it is a critical assembly.
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Old 11-16-2006   #13
carlintexas
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 109
Thanks Mysterious. I'm going to the auto supply today and will pick some up.

I've got the high flow installed, installed the heat shield (didn't move the P.S. res) and I installed my new grilles. The GReddy BOV is adjustable and if I put it where the old bov was I would have to pull the nose to make adjustments (stupid) so I'm putting a 2 foot hose from the tube bov outlet and routing the bov back up into the engine bay so I can adjust the thing.
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Old 11-13-2006   #14
carlintexas
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 109
Here's my answer to how to get more air to the intercooler - cut a 4" x 18" section out of the bottom of the nose piece!

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Old 11-13-2006   #15
tweety
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 117
Mr Hahn and his people sent me a new actuator, and I didn't even ask for it!
I put it on the car in about 1-1/2 hours and what the hell was I missing before???
This car f-ing moves now. Holy shit!!!
Too little too late for me but holy shit!!!
This thing spools like there is not tomorrow and with very little input to the throttle.
To think that if I hadn't put in Timus777's kit that I would have never known that there was something wrong with the piece.
Damn.

Last edited by tweety; 11-13-2006 at 08:14 PM.
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